Feasting in the university library, Morelia

Enchiladas in green tomatillo sauce with just the right amount of heat. Or tacos al pastor on tortillas so fresh you can almost see the handprints in the masa harina, perhaps from the… Continue reading

Feeling it, in the Palacio Clavijero

Our objectivity was long gone by the time we reached the Palacio Clavijero in Morelia, Michoacan. We were already far too in love with Mexico by then.   So it didn’t surprise us… Continue reading

One more thing

I meant it when I said I’d rather not blog about corona (I have a number of Mexican stories I want to tell you) but after I posted that last one on facebook… Continue reading

Not about coronavirus. Except also that.

Kenny Rogers died the other night, and there was something very strange about the coverage. Or rather, not the coverage itself, but the way I heard it. It was strange to hear the… Continue reading

Smalltown Beijing

It’s been years since I bookmarked “10 Chinese villages in danger of being destroyed” as that country marched into modernity behind the bulldozer. It was a previous computer and the link is long… Continue reading

The bones I found in Derbyshire

Waking up in the English countryside is always a good way to start the day. I lay on warm sheets and listened to the absence of bustle as our hamlet in the Peak… Continue reading

Reminder in a Ukrainian cemetery

Gabryela Zapolska was a feuilletonist. It’s okay, no one else knows what that is either. I only mention it because Gabryela’s name is in the Latin alphabet on her grave at Lychakiv Cemetery… Continue reading

People you meet in train stations

Pasazhyrskyi was exactly the sort of name I wanted for Kiev’s train station. Add the neo-baroque interior with its multi-level chandeliers hanging from cavernous ceilings, and starkly decorative interior levels that were simultaneously… Continue reading

Art and artists in Zacatecas, Mexico

Rafael Coronel was Diego Rivera’s brother-in-law, but that wasn’t the most interesting thing about him in Zacatecas. When the city renovated a former monastery from the 1500’s, Rafael donated his mask collection as… Continue reading

What is Zacatecas?

The sky immediately soothed me. We’d landed in Zacatecas as evening came on, and the airborne vista’s agricultural monotony had caused some slight trepidation, but on the short drive to town I was immersed… Continue reading