Category Archive: Best of Europe

The Wizard of Oz and I

“When I was a boy, I knew what I wanted to be.” My assumption was beginning when he filled in the answer. “A cowboy!”

I’m naked, with special guest: Benito Mussolini

“Mi scusi” is Italian for “Excuse me.” You might hear it when someone interrupts, or steps on your foot, or when the maid opens the door to your hotel room without knocking, two… Continue reading

Community of strangers, on one last night in Rome

They have a community, these men. They have formed a new edition of an ancient tradition, society’s subtext of foreigners who do not pertain, but belong anyway.

Okay fine. I give up. I love Paris too.

There’s something terribly cliche about loving Paris. It’s like loving chocolate, puppies, and The Princess Bride. Of course you love those things. So does everyone else. Not interesting. After reading the 10,000th love… Continue reading

It’s always a good time for a French vineyard

“You are going to Beaune?” said the French sisters, their fine Parisian brows lifting in Gallic surprise. “Yes. Why? Is it…not nice?” My slight trepidation. “Non non non!” They reassured. “It is very… Continue reading

Romanticism, revolution, and Riesling, in Bacharach, Germany

The most interesting thing about the Hotel Kranenturm is not that a very active German railway line passes a few meters from your room, periodically shaking the building with the thunder of gargantuan… Continue reading

On the right bus, in Florence

“The Tuscan Frying Pan” had been in fine frying form all week, but at 8:00 AM the air was the sort of warmthy and goldeny and pillowy that makes so many people write… Continue reading

Turns out I like Germany after all, in Munich

“Put your hand up, put your damn hands up! Tonight is my life, because tonight I’m a sinner! Keep your hands up, keep your damn hands up! Tonight is my life, it’s an… Continue reading

I’d seen Switzerland, but not like this.

…the clear plexiglass lets you look straight down, only hazily encumbered, into the vertiginous expanse of glacial geologic debauchery.

Playing French, eating like a Bourgondier

Belgians consider themselves quite the lovers of good food and drink. So much so, that they created a term for that side of themselves. Know what they chose? “Burgondiers.” That is, people from… Continue reading