Category Archive: traveling

How we barely avoided sleeping on the street in Ecuador.

We stepped off the musty bus onto the abused concrete sidewalk of the town of Canoa and immediately looked around for hotel signs in the dark. From where we stood, hoisting out backpacks… Continue reading

Would you rather catch a cold or stink like fish?

(I have no pictures of this day, but this layout I’m trying seems to want pictures, so here’s a pair each from Riobamba and the Amazon both earlier in Ecuador. Let me know… Continue reading

Djou know who djour firs president was?

In 1999 Ecuador had a 197% inflation rate. The wealthy removed about $2 billion from the country, and the GDP shrank by 5.3%. As part of the reforms in response, the country adopted… Continue reading

A few Puerto Lopez photos

The lethargy of heat and humidity is upon me, and all my words have melted, but luckily pictures don’t, so here’s a few more pictures from Puerto Lopez. Unfortunately not pictured is the indigenous… Continue reading

Humpback whale watching with Winston Churchill

Our first day in Puerto Lopez we met Winston Churchill on the beach. He’s a lean man with kind eyes, a ready smile, and a helluva sales pitch for whale watching tours, informative… Continue reading

Squelching amoebas, carbon monoxide poisoning, and your daily Wyclef reference.

The fridge in the musty cockroach-corpse kitchen didn’t work (and one of the big veggie drawers at the bottom was full of about three gallons of…is that lemonade?) so every morning I’d run… Continue reading

Dead people, and double points for the cockroach.

On our way down from the Sanctuary of Olon we stopped by the area-typical small cemetery. A scattering of low crosses, concrete shells in differing sizes (at least one with the regional soccer… Continue reading

Maybe a sacrilege of wealth. Maybe a miracle of blood.

Ecuador’s coastline is punctuated by giant ridges of stone that jut into the sea, leaving long stretches of sandy beach borded on each side by steep cliffs, like lines on a geological measuring… Continue reading

Ecuadorian creepy-crawlies underfoot.

“Ventana” (Spanish for “wind”) derives from the Latin word for wind, ventus. English window has a similar connection with the wind. It derives from the Scandinavian word vindauga, a combination of vindr ‘wind’… Continue reading

Why is the stink of feces such a common part of traveling?

With the sand of our ill-fated attempt at San Pablo still on our feet, we arrived in Montanita, arguably the tourism capital of the Ecuador Coast. When we stepped down from the bus… Continue reading