Back in the paleotechnic dawn of the 21st century, my mother’s request was understandable. “Just call me once a week to let me know you’re alive,” she said, as I wandered off across… Continue reading
“It’s a pretty easy place to get lost…I don’t think there are any signs…there’s not really a path…what little path there was got pretty washed out last winter…there’s a bridge, but it’s missing… Continue reading
Went for a walk today. Made my ankle blister bleed again, and got on Colombian television. We found a flyer in town for a desert garden that advertised a labyrinth, medicine wheel, and… Continue reading
It was with not a shred of reluctance that I returned to Albahaca restaurant for another round of ajiaco con pollo. Oh the things I put up with. The same expressionless waitress was… Continue reading
Villa de Leyva has a number of worthwhile destinations scattered in the surrounding countryside, one of which is a set of “aguas termales“ or thermal pools. The flustered girl in the tourist information… Continue reading
To say the streets of Villa de Leyva are cobblestone would be like saying Bogota has traffic; sure it’s true, but the level of understatement is unacceptable. Antwerp has cobblestone streets, regular shapes… Continue reading
As far as cities go (and a capital city at that) Bogota is pretty good. And most significantly, it was where K joined me; I am half a pair again. She joined me… Continue reading
One of my favorite effects of traveling is the tendency to feel (at least functionally) comfortable in nearly any situation. This is easier some times than others. Eating with your right hand in… Continue reading
Rudy is a fan of dawn departures, so as the sun rose we were pointed towards Colombia, engines humming, relentless and calm. The crossing would take a day and a half, most of… Continue reading
The Cartagena heat melted all my words, which ran down in an inky slide into the off-gray mattress, perplexing the mosquitoes along the way, but here I sit in Bogota, the next chapter… Continue reading
6:30 Get up after third night where I wake up disoriented and feeling the motion of the boat. Sweating already. 7:00 Breakfast at El Gato Negro, whose staff are my Colombian buddies. I’ll… Continue reading
