Hornafjordur. It won’t notice when it kills you.

Someone lived here. That’s the thing that boggled my mind, as I leaned into the wind, peering at the fuzzy shapes of dunes through the mesh of my cheap hooded shirt pulled across… Continue reading

Words didn’t happen in Iceland, but photos did

Iceland, for me, was a vacation from traveling. I had few cultural experiences there (one that threatened projectile vomit), met few Icelanders (guys in a bar explained how to avoid dating one’s cousin… Continue reading

I don’t believe you, but I love you anyway

They tell me this is one planet. All the same one. But I’m not sure I believe them.   Because I remember walking down a backstreet in San Salvador, where children stopped their… Continue reading

Juan the Priest

He made the pupusa girl smile. Her mother laughed, and I probably blushed. Their reactions were the most common, smiles and laughter, and I saw them again and again on face after face… Continue reading

Joaquin Media Barba

The buses all had places to go, and gas to burn to get there. The expressionless faces of passengers (some things are universal) turned towards me through rattling window panes as I waited… Continue reading

Passion, danger, guns and roses in Soyapango

El Salvador uses the US dollar, and since going to the ATM is always a good opportunity for robbery (by thugs, or even worse: the banks) and/or excessive “I’m Jason Bourne” playtime, I… Continue reading

Electrons on vacation, so the neurons went too

At first, it seems like one’s travel computer going on the fritz on the eve of a trip would be a bad thing. It probably is. But right this second, the lack of… Continue reading

Why would you want to go there?

I told a Salvadoran friend of mine that I would be passing through his country, and asked what he thought I should do there. His response surprised me.   “You’re going to El… Continue reading

One last off-kilter day in Lima

I couldn’t find a child. I’ve never had that problem before. Of course, I’d never had this particular mission either, but it was an irregular day.   After MPicchu, I had just enough… Continue reading

From balls to buckets. Inca Jungle Trip (Part 3 of 3)

What do you do when you’re thirsty and footsore after ten hours of walking, relaxed after watching the sunset in the hot springs, and surrounded by new and brilliant friends? You drink chicha!… Continue reading