Christmas Eve in Vietnam
The food vendors stood out. But they’re a salient part of Vietnamese streets and downtown districts every other day of the year too. The piles of bright strawberries or tart green mangos, heaps of olives, sticky trays of fried dough balls in assorted sweetness combinations were familiar on the shores of Hoan Kiem lake in Hanoi but on Christmas Eve they tempted in greater splendor.
Did the women sitting on low stools or standing by folding tables where sliced sausages, leaf-wrapped packets, and dumplings of alluring gastronomic mystery steamed in the cooling air have a different energy in their conversations and sales pitches? They had to. It wasn’t just the crowd of people smiling their ways through the soft darkness.
It was a well behaved excitement. The men sitting in the corner bar, their stools diffusing out into the flow of motorcycle traffic, were not as loud on beer as usual, but sat back with slow smiles as they pulled apart the rainbow shells of fresh crabs or slid the sauteed meat off satay skewers. It was a family kind of night.
The motorized toy-car wranglers squatted by their plastic stock and collected the cash into wads while parents tapped photos into their phones, again in greater numbers than on a workaday night, and again with an underlying smile that showed that Christmas Eve was special for them too, even as business proceeded as usual.
But it wasn’t about gadgets and gizmos, products and consumption, and technology was of use but no priority, as the greatest draws were simple wicker balls kicked around the circle of strangers made instant friends by this Far East hacky sack, and families merged into two macro-units on either side of a heavy hawser for round after round of tug of war.
If it wasn’t about the materials, maybe it was the jolly man in red? Glittering foil Santa balloons rode with many of the pairs and trios perched on motorbikes, and those red hats with the white puffball kept heads warm throughout the press, but Santa was not the star of the show either.
So maybe it was religion. A crowd was cooing its social ease outside St Joseph’s Cathedral, but only about 8% of the country is Christian and the draw seemed to be the colored lights on the Gothic Revival facade, not the mythology within it.
Not gifts, not Santa, not Jesus, so what was Christmas Eve in Vietnam?
It was fun. Relaxed. Friendship in the swirl, families in the laughter, a no pressure festivity of a nighttime gathering where the rationale was less than the reality. Christmas is the most dominant cultural event in human history, a source of joy and stress for millions around the world, and in Hanoi I found a beautiful iteration of it. Ease and a low-key appreciation of something not needed, not built up, just enjoyed for whatever it happened to be.
Hard to believe it’s already been a year but not surprising at all that it’s still in me.
Happy holidays, wherever and whatever the days find you. And may your joy be easy.
Happy Holidays to you too!! 😄😄
LikeLiked by 1 person
Happy holidays to you too. One of our daughters is having Christmas in Vietnam for the first time.
LikeLiked by 1 person
How did she do with the holiday?
LikeLiked by 1 person
She had a great time and is looking forward to the New Year celebrations.
LikeLike
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s gorgeous. I hope the season treats you well and that it’s a good and kind new year.
LikeLiked by 2 people
And to you as well, Joseph!
LikeLike
I look at Christmas as a solstice celebration. It seems that humans have a natural inclination to celebrate something–anything at the winter solstice. Perhaps we should start a world-wide July solstice celebration, too. A reverse Christmas? We could give away things we already have and fast for the day. Ha, I don’t think that will catch on.
May the joy in your new year be easy and plentiful!
LikeLiked by 2 people
I absolutely love that idea. I think it would have magnificent effects. Remind me of that when we get closer to July, I’m up for it!!
LikeLike
I hope you had a wondrous Christmas with no Jesus in it hahahah. So why do they celebrate if they don’t believe?
LikeLiked by 2 people
The majority of Vietnam is actually Christian. I’ve seen more churches there than back home.
LikeLike
They believe in a wide array of things! I’ve found that all humans have their own pantheon, whether or not they realize it. (I fear for those among us who worship only money, consumerism, and status, but the human spirit demands deities.)
LikeLiked by 1 person
very true. it is a sad world where humans has lost the credence to believe. All they can imagine is how to make money and live lavish lifestyle. It has become rare to see families living with purity. I go to bed knowing about the word “imperfect” and I wake up knowing this is how I live life. One world different people! How can I explain it otherwise!
LikeLike
Great post! looks like Christmas in Hanoi treated you well, I spent my christmas in Nha Trang and loved it, the Vietnamese are so festive!
LikeLiked by 2 people
They definitely know how to relax and have fun! Watching them enjoy the tug-of-war was a gift in itself!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Great post! How was New Year’s in Hanoi?
LikeLiked by 2 people
Unfortunately I don’t know, I flew to Seoul on Christmas Day. How was your New Year’s?
LikeLike
It was crazy… I’ve never seen traffic like it, and in Vietnam, that’s saying something…
LikeLiked by 1 person
hahaha Indeed it is.
LikeLike